ngolo: ancient kingdom of nubia

Sep 18, 2010

ancient kingdom of nubia

At the pyramids in Meroe.

Took a trip to the pyramids at Meroe, located north of Khartoum along River Nile. This is the site of the Kingdom of Meroe dating back to around 500-300B.C. The kingdom lasted about 600 years before Axum (from Ethiopia) took over. You may notice one of the paintings in the Gebel Barkal temple has Coptic influence (hence Ethiopian). Most of the pyramids have been destroyed by explorers in search of treasure.

If you plan to do this trip out of Khartoum, make sure to get a travel permit and photography permit that specifically states the area you plan to take pictures and travel to. We were asked for this document several times throughout the trip, including several check points. Also bring your passport with the proper visa and permit sticker. Fortunately we had all with us and avoided any headaches.

The tomb of El-Kurru.

Image of god, king, and god.

Stopping to enjoy the scenery on the way back to town.

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travel tips

- Starbucks makes good ready-brewed (instant coffee), great to shove in the backpack and it makes a very nice, drinkable cup of morning java.

- large US dollar bills, $100 are best and dated 2003 and newer. there are no ATMs in juba.

- forget traveler cheques. i've been stranded in several countries with a tc that cashier wouldn't cash/accept. in india and thailand they claimed the signature wasn't mine because it didn't match the signature in my passport from 8+ years ago.

-research the city you are flying into and whether you even want to stay there or move on right away. larger cities tend to be full of opportunist waiting to rip you off, more expensive, and sometimes more dangerous (belize city due to drug trafficking).

-use ONLY a pre-paid cab from the airport. in india they will tell you that your destination doesn't exist or that it just burnt down or that it is unsafe to go there - the cab driver only wants to take you to his cousin's hotel or shop. stay strong, they smell fear!!!

-hire someone to help you get through the airport in congo/kinshasa (i have a contact if you need one, only costs $20). expect to pay your way through immigration and to pay to pass bag inspection. nothing is bribe-free in kinshasa, carry lots of very small local currency in different pockets. bribery is a way of life, although i heard they are cleaning up their act.

-bargain for a sensible deal but don't take advantage of people.

-make friends with people carrying guns, but use common sense.

-learn local language phrases, it will get you a big smile and help you get a long way.

-i recommend bittar bus service for overland trips in mali. it is located a few hundred meters south of the large bus terminal on the south side of the bridge. the bamako - segou trip takes about 3 hours - but you don't get any peanuts.

-if you don't mind traveling in a flying casket, the 60 era russian antonov planes in congo/kinshasa are the quickest way to get around the country. ask the pilot if you can sit in the cockpit, to avoid standing in the back of the plane. they forgot to fully close the door on the plane i took out of kin and i had to tell the co-pilot/navigator that it was open right before we took off.

- be careful who you trust (no duh), one incident in Casablanca, a guy came up to me at a cafe and acted all interested in America and wanted to discuss stuff. He was hard to shake and kept following me, explaining bits of the city and its history. Finally, after this going on for ever and me trying to ditch him we reach the train station which I planned to board, at which point he starts demanding money for being my "tour guide". Of course the tension mounts and tempers flare.

- remember to collect your shampoo from where ever you spent the night. I don't know how many places where I've left decent shampoo in the shower stall, only to end up having to buy some cheap replacement that ends up turning my hair green (ok that didn't actually happen).
-more later