This post is severely delayed, the actual travel occurred during the middle to end of February. But as they say, it is better to be late than never...and out here late is the norm.
We grabbed our packs, hopped on the UN plane and were dropped off (again) in the middle of no where. Prepared for 10 days to assess projects and check up on what is going on along the Sob@t River and with our fishery program. The river flows along the S. Sud@n and Ethiopi@n border, carrying heavy sediment load runoff from the highlands of Ethiopian and Southern S. Sud@n. The plan lands on a rough dirt / hard clay air strip in Ak*b* were we will spend the first half of the trip and stage day trips from.
Platypus gravity fed water filtration system, a hands free water filtering process.
The nights are sweltering and the small tukels we sleep in offer no air movement. I ended up closing my door too as there was a large black snake spotted near the latrine. I have never sweated so much while sleeping before...usually waking up with a soaked wad of clothing that was acting as a pillow. The cool morning air is a refreshing breath as I exit the tukel...the sun climbing into the morning sky.
The latrine, not sure who uses the seat thing in the background, but that would require extra precision. By far this is one of the cleanest and latrines in best conditions...it does help that it is a new one. When the pit starts to get too full and maggots and other moving things can be seen below is where the experience goes to the next level. The design and layout of these things are critical in order to reduce odor and flies. If done right, it does work.
The outdoor bucket bath, surrounded by a reed wall. The cool water at the end of the day washes off the dust, dirt and heat from a day of sweating profusely while a starry sky shines above.
Fish eagles perched in a tree along the River.
A make shift raft to float fish and other supplies down (or up) the river. This one is going up stream. There are two people holding a string that walking along either side of the river and pull the raft upstream. Depending on where the fisher men start from and where the closest market is, they will chose to go up or down stream. The rafts are full of dried fish and all their camping/living supplies from a fish camp. The raft is made by taking a tarp and filling with fish, staking in the middle of the plastic tarp. After a few courses of fish, they pull up the tarp to create sides for the raft and then tie around the perimeter. Then they keep staking things on top of the fish flotilla. Timber and branches, cut grass and other tukel construction materials are often staked on and sometimes you'll even see people cooking on top of the mound of stuff.
Filtering at night, accompanied by semi-cool Ethiopian Bedela beer hunted down in the market.
A killer wasp finishing off a grasshopper. The wasp proceeds to pull the grasshopper to a hole and then pulls it into the hole.
Make shift oven
The compound where we stay in Ak*b*, several tukels surrounding an open area.
Breakfast in Ak*b* includes an oily lentil dish with flat bread washed down with a strong sweet black coffee. Each person received one of those little metal dishes and a flat bread to dip into it. Above the open air stove and dishes are chickens roasting above the oven or running around trying to stay out of the dinner pot. Food is scarce here and this was one of the few spots that actually had food. Run by Ethiopians, the businesses and restaurants receive goods from Ethiopia...they are the entrepreneurial and you may think you are in Ethiopian.
People on the move...moving from one cattle camp to the next. )Going with their new acquired cattle from a recent raid?? Won't speculate here...)
Fish drying and a convenient snack for a weaver bird.
This trip is during the dry season, when we were here the last time, the river water levels were over flowing the banks. This shows the drastic fluctuation in water levels from raining to dry season. The navigable channels in the river become difficult to traverse as the elevation is low and we would hit sand bars frequently.
Stopping at a temporary cattle camp along the way. Speculation is that these are the ones who raided Pi$$bor and were returning with the stolen cows...thousands, hundred of thousands - you do the math and the dollar value is nothing to shake a stick at.
Behind this girl, you'll see stakes in the ground that are used to tie the cattle at night, or select cows.
The white ear kob, chilling in the vast grasslands shrouded in the dry season wild fire smoke.
Approaching the fiery pass. The wild grass fire has reached the banks of the river and thick smoke clouded our vision beyond the spot of the fire. On first attempt to pass, the heat was tremendous and the smoke choking our lungs, tearing our eyes. So we quickly turned back and went up stream to get out and assess the situation. After investigating, the fire was dying off as it had burnt the grass along the banks and was slowly dissipating. This time we could see clear sky beyond the initial thick cloud of smoke and it wouldn't take long to pass through. On second attempt, choking on grass fire smoke and eyes tearing, we make it pass the fire and into semi fresh air. All around, grass fires were burning and the air remained a haze all day, appearing like an over cast day.
Another make shift floating contraption.
Staying in N@sir. One morning as I'm sitting by my tent, slowly waking up, I'm hit in the back of the head by a swooping kite (scavenger bird). Then the bird attacks my colleague who is getting out of a tent nearby. This time the kite draws blood and the battle is on. We notice that we had set up our tents on either side of a large kite nest. These things are ruthless scavengers, known to pluck sandwiches and chicken legs from your hands...and claw mark reminders. The nest is empty, but it is destroyed to chase away the kite.
No comments:
Post a Comment